A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z
Textile Dictionary is start by Letter-D
DAMASK: A firm, glossy, Jacquard-patterned fabric that may be made from linen, cotton, rayon,silk, or a combination of these with various manufactured fibers. Similar to brocade, but flatter and reversible, damask is used for napkins, tablecloths, draperies, and upholstery.
DAMPENING (IN TIRE CORD): The relative ability to absorb energy and deaden oscillation after excitation.
DECATING MARK: A crease mark or impression extending fillingwise across the fabric near the beginning or end of the piece.
DECATIZING: A finishing process in which fabric, wound tightly on a perforated roller, either has hot water circulated through it (wet decatizing), or has steam blown through it (dry decatizing). The process is aimed chiefly at improving the hand and removing wrinkles.
DECITEX: One tenth of a tex.
DECORTICATING: A mechanical process for separating the woody matter from the bast fiber of such plants as ramie and hemp.
DEEP-DYEING VARIANTS: Polymers that have been chemically modified to increase their dyeability. Fibers and fabrics made therefrom can be dyed to very heavy depth.
DEFECTS: A general term that refers to some flaw in a textile product that detracts from either performance or appearance properties.
DEFORMATION: A change in the shape of a specimen, e.g., an increase in length produced as the result of the application of a tensile load or force. Deformation may be immediate or delayed,and the latter may be recoverable or nonrecoverable.
DEGRADATION: The loss of desirable physical properties by a textile material as a result of some process or physical/chemical phenomenon.
DEGREE OF ESTERIFICATION: The extent to which the acid groups of terephthalic and/or other acids have reacted with diols to form ester groups in polyester polymer production.
DEGREE OF POLYMERIZATION: Refers to the number of monomer units in an average
polymer. It can be controlled during processing and affects the properties of the end product.
DEGUMMING: The removal of gum from silk by boiling in a mildly alkaline solution. Usually accomplished on the knit or woven fabric.
DELAYED DEFORMATION: Deformation that is time-dependent and is exhibited by material subjected to a continuing load; creep. Delayed deformation may be recoverable following removal of the applied load.
DELUSTERING: Subduing or dulling the natural luster of a textile material by chemical or
physical means. The term often refers to the use of titanium dioxide or other white pigments as delustrants in textile materials.
DELUSTRANT: A substance that can be used to dull the luster of a manufactured fiber. Often a pigment such as titanium dioxide.
DENIER: A weight-per-unit-length measure of any linear material. Officially, it is the number of unit weights of 0.05 grams per 450-meter length. This is numerically equal to the weight in grams of 9,000 meters of the material. Denier is a direct numbering system in which the lower numbers represent the finer sizes and the higher numbers the coarser sizes. In the U.S., the denier system is used for numbering filament yarns (except glass), manufactured fiber staple (but not spun yarns), and tow. In most countries outside the U.S., the denier system has been replaced by the tex system. The following denier terms are in use:
Total Denier: The denier of a tow before it is crimped. It is the product of the denier per filament and the number of filaments in the tow. The total denier after crimping (called crimped total denier) is higher because of the resultant increase in weight per unit length.
DENIER VARIATION: Usually variation in diameter, or other cross-sectional dimension, along the length of a filament or bundle of filaments. It is caused by malfunction or lack of process control in fiber manufacturing and degrades resulting fabric appearance or performance.
DENIM: A firm 2 x 1 or 3 x 1 twill-weave fabric, often having a whitish tinge, obtained by using white filling yarns with colored warp yarns. Heavier weight denims, usually blue or brown, are used for dungarees, work clothes, and men’s and women’s sportswear. Lighter weight denims with softer finish are made in a variety of colors and patterns and are used for sportswear and draperies.
DENSITY: The mass per unit volume (usually expressed as grams per cubic centimeter).
DENT: On a loom, the space between the wires of a reed.
DEREGISTERING (CRIMP): Process of disordering or disaligning the crimp in a tow band to produce bulk.
DESULFURIZING: An aftertreatment to remove sulfur from newly spun viscose rayon by
passing the yarn through a sodium sulfide solution.
DETERGENT: A synthetic cleaning agent containing surfactants that do not precipitate in hard water and have the ability to emulsify oil and suspend dirt.
DEVELOPING: A stage in dyeing or printing in which leuco compounds, dyes, or dye
intermediates are converted to the final, stable state or shade.
DEWPOINT: The temperature at which a gas begins to condense as a liquid at a given pressure.Thus in air, it is the temperature at which the air becomes saturated when cooled with no further addition of moisture or change in pressure.
DIAL: In a circular-knitting machine, a circular steel plate with radially arranged slots for needles. A knitting machine equipped with both a dial and a cylinder (q.v.) can produce double-knit fabrics.
DIAMINE: A compound with two amino groups. Hexamethylenediamine, one of the intermediates in the manufacture of nylon 66 salt, is an example of this chemical type.
DIELECTRIC BREAKDOWN VOLTAGE: In an electrical insulating material, the voltage at
which electrical breakdown occurs, i.e., the voltage at which current will flow and/or the material melts.
DIELECTRIC CONSTANT: Measure of the ability of a dielectric material to store electrical potential energy under the influence of an electric field, measured by the ratio of the capacitance of a condenser with the material as the dielectric to its capacitance with a vacuum as the dielectric.
DIELECTRIC STRENGTH: The average voltage gradient at which electrical failure or
breakdown occurs. Expressed in volts per mil.
DIFFERENTIAL THERMAL ANALYSIS: A method of determining the temperature at which thermal events occur in a material undergoing continuous heating.
DIFFUSION: 1. A more or less gradual movement of molecules or ions through a solution or fiber as a result of the existence of a concentration gradient or repulsive or attractive forces. 2.The random movement of gas molecules.
DIMENSIONAL RESTORABILITY: The ability of a fabric to be returned to its original
dimensions after laundering or dry cleaning, expressed in percent. For example, 2% dimensional restorability means that although a fabric may shrink more than this in washing, it can be restored to within 2% of its original dimensions by ordinary home pressing methods.
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY: The ability of textile material to maintain or return to its
original geometric configuration.
DIMETHYL TEREPHTHALATE: [p-C6H4(COOCH3)2] An intermediate used in the
production of polyethylene terephthalate, the polymer from which polyester fibers and resins are made.
DIMITY: A sheer, thin, spun cloth that sometimes has cords or stripes woven in. It is used for aprons, pinafores, and many types of dress goods.
DIP: 1. Immersion of a textile material in some processing liquid. The term is usually used in connection with a padding or slashing process. 2. The rubber compound with which tire cords and other in-rubber textiles are treated to give improved adhesion to rubber.
DIP PENETRATION: The degree of saturation through a tire cord after impregnation with an adhesive.
DIP PICKUP: The amount of adhesive applied to a tire cord by dipping, expressed as a
percentage of the weight of the cord before dipping.
DIP TREATING: The process of passing fiber, cord, or fabric through an adhesive bath,
followed by drying and heat-treating of the adhesive-coated fiber to obtain better adhesion.
DIRECT ESTERIFICATION: In the production of polyethylene terephthalate, the process in which ethylene glycol is reacted with terephthalic acid to form bis-ß-hydroxyethyl terephthalate monomer with the generation of water as a by-product.
DIRECTIONALLY ORIENTED FABRICS: Rigid fabric constructions containing inlaid warp
or fill yarns held in place by a warp-knit structure. Used in geotextiles, coated fabrics,
composites, etc.
DISPERSION: 1. A system consisting of finely divided particles and the medium in which they are distributed. 2. Separation of light into colors by diffraction or refraction. 3. A qualitative estimation of the separation and uniform distribution of fibers in the liquid during the production of a wet-formed nonwoven fabric.
DISTRIBUTION LENGTH: In fibers, a graphic or tabular presentation of the proportion or percentage (by number or by weight) of fibers having different lengths.
DIVIDED THREADLINE EXTRUSION: Spinning of two separate threadlines from one
spinneret.
DOBBY: 1. A mechanical attachment on a loom. A dobby controls the harnesses to permit the weaving of geometric figures. 2. A loom equipped with a dobby. 3. A fabric woven on a dobby loom.
DOCTOR BLADE: A metal knife that cleans or scrapes the excess dye from engraved printing rollers, leaving dye paste only in the valleys of engraved areas. Also used to describe other blades that are used to apply materials evenly to rollers or fabrics.
DOCTOR STREAK: A defect in printed fabrics consisting of a wavy white or colored streak in the warp direction. It is caused by a damaged or improperly set doctor blade on the printing machine.
DOESKIN FINISH: A soft low nap that is brushed in one direction. Cloth with this type of finish is used on billiard tables and in men’s wear.
DOFF: A set of full bobbins produced by one machine (a roving frame, a spinning frame, or a manufactured filament-yarn extrusion machine).
DOFFER: 1. The last or delivery cylinder of the card from which the sheet of fibers is removed by the doffer comb. 2. An operator who removes full bobbins, spools, containers, or other packages from a machine and replaces them with empty ones.
DOFFER COMB: A reciprocating comb, the teeth of which oscillate close to the card clothing of the doffer to strip the web of fibers from the card.
DOFFER LOADING: Fibers imbedded so deeply into the doffer wire clothing that the doffer comb cannot dislodge them to form a traveling web.
DOFFING: The operation of removing full packages, bobbins, spools, roving cans, caps, etc.,from a machine and replacing them with empty ones.
DONEGAL: A tweed fabric with colorful slubs woven in, donegal is used for suits and coats.
DOTTED SWISS: A sheer cotton or cotton blend fabric with small dot motif, dotted swiss is used for dress goods, curtains, baby clothes, etc.
DOUBLE BACK: A secondary backing glued to the back of carpet, usually to increase
dimensional stability.
DOUBLE-CLOTH CONSTRUCTION: Two fabrics are woven in the loom at the same time,one fabric on top of the other, with binder threads holding the two fabrics together. The weave on the two fabrics can be different.
DOUBLE END: Two ends woven as one in a fabric. A double end may be intentional for fabric styling, or accidental, in which case a fabric defect results.
DOUBLE-KNIT FABRIC: A fabric produced on a circular-knitting machine equipped with two sets of latch needles situated at right angles to each other (dial and cylinder).
DOUBLE WEAVE: A fabric woven with two systems of warp or filling threads so combined that only one is visible on either side. Cutting the yarns that hold the two cloths together yields two separate cutpile fabrics.
DOUPPIONI: A rough or irregular yarn made of silk reeled from double or triple cocoons.Fabrics of douppioni have an irregular appearance with long, thin slubs. Douppioni-like yarns are now being spun from polyester and/or rayon staple.
DOWNDRAFT METIER: A dry-spinning machine in which the airflow within the drying
cabinet is in the same direction as the yarn path (downward).
DOWNGRADE: In quality control, the lowering of the grade and/or value of a product due to the presence of defects.
DOWNTWISTER: A cap, ring, or flyer twisting frame.
DRAFT: In weaving, a pattern or plan for drawing-in.
DRAFT RATIO: The ratio between the weight or length of fiber fed into various machines and that delivered from the machines in spun yarn manufacture. It represents the reduction in bulk and weight of stock, one of the most important principles in the production of yarn from staple fibers.
DRAPE: A term to describe the way a fabric falls while it hangs; the suppleness and ability of a fabric to form graceful configurations.
DRAW-BACK: A crossed end; an end broken during warping that when repaired was not free or was tied in with an adjacent end or ends overlapping the broken end. The end draws or pulls back when unwound on the slasher.
DRAW DOWN: The amount by which manufactured filaments are stretched following
extrusion.
DRAW-FRAME BLENDS: Blends of fibers made at the draw frame by feeding in ends of
appropriate card sliver. This method is used when blend uniformity is not a critical factor.
DRAWING: 1. The process of attenuating or increasing the length per unit weight of laps, slivers,slubbings, or rovings. 2. The hot or cold stretching of continuous filament yarn or tow to align and arrange the crystalline structure of the molecules to achieve
improved tensile properties.
DRAWING-IN: In weaving, the process of threading warp ends through the eyes of the heddles and the dents of the reed.
DRAWN TOW: A zero-twist bundle of continuous filaments that has been stretched to achieve molecular orientation. (Tows for staple and spun yarn application are usually crimped.)Drawing Sliver
DRAW RATIO: The ratio of final to original length per unit weight of yarn, laps, slivers,
slubbings, rovings, etc., resulting from drawing.
DRAW-SIZING: A system linking drawwarping and sizing in a continuous process.A typical system includes the following elements: (1) creel, (2) eyelet board, (3)warp-draw machine, (4) intermingler, (5)tension compensator and break monitor, (6)sizing bath, (7) dryers, (8) waxing and winding units.
DRAW-TEXTURING: In the manufacture of thermoplastic fibers, the simultaneous process of drawing to increase molecular orientation and imparting crimp to increase bulk.
DRAW-TWISTING: The operation of stretching continuous filament yarn to align and order the molecular and crystalline structure in which the yarn is taken up by means of a ring-and-traveler device that inserts a small amount of twist (usually ¼ to ½ turn per inch) into the drawn yarn.
DRAW-WARPING: A process in which a number of threadlines, usually 800 to 2000 ends of POY feedstock,are oriented under essentially equal mechanical and thermal conditions by a stretching stage using variable speed rolls, then directly wound onto the beam. This process gives uniform end-to-end properties.
DRAW-WINDING: The operation of stretching continuous filament yarn to align or order
molecular and crystalline structure. The drawn yarn is taken up on a parallel tub or cheese,resulting in a zero-twist yarn.
DRILL: A strong denim-like material with a diagonal 2 x 1 weave running toward the left
selvage. Drill is often called khaki when it is dyed that color.
DROPPED STITCHES: A defect in knit cloth characterized by recurrent cuts in one or more wales of a length of cloth.
DROP STITCH: 1. An open design made in knitting by removing some of the needles at set intervals. 2. A defect in knit fabric.
DROP WIRES: A stop-motion device utilizing metal wires suspended from warp or creeled yarns. When a yarn breaks, the wire drops, activation the switch that stops the machine.
DRY CLEANING: Removing dirt and stains from fabrics or garments by processing in organic solvents (chlorinated hydrocarbons or mineral spirits).
DRY FILLING: The application of finishing chemicals to dry fabric, usually by padding.
DRY FORMING: The production of fiber webs by methods that do not use water or other liquids, i.e., air-laying or carding.
DRYING CYLINDERS: Any of a number of heated revolving cylinders for drying fabric or
yarn. They are arranged either vertically or horizontally in sets, with the number varying
according to the material to be dried. They are often internally heated with steam and Tefloncoated to prevent sticking.
DRY-LAID NONWOVENS: Nonwoven web made from dry fiber. Usually refers to fabrics
from carded webs versus air-laid nonwovens which are formed from random webs.
DUCK: A compact, firm, heavy, plain weave fabric with a weigh of 6 to 50 ounces per square yard. Plied yarn duck has plied yarn in both warp and filling. Flat duck has a warp of two single yarns woven as one and a filling of either single or plied yarn.
DULL: A term applied to manufactured fibers that have been chemically or physically modified to reduce their normal luster. Matte; opposite of bright; low in luster.
DUMBELLS: A defect frequently seen in wet-formed nonwoven fabrics; an unusually long fiber will become entangled with groups of regular-length fibers at each end, thus producing a dumbbell-shaped clump.
DUNGAREE: A term describing a coarse denim-type fabric, usually dyed blue, that is used for work overalls.
DURABILITY: A relative term for the resistance of a material to loss of physical properties or appearance as a result of wear or dynamic operation.
DUST-RESISTANT: A term applied to a fabric that has been tightly woven so that it resists dust penetration.
DWELL TIME: The time during a process in which a particular substance remains in one
location (e.g., the time during which molten polymer remains in a spinning pack.)
DYE FLECK: 1. An imperfection in fabric caused by residual undissolved dye. 2. A defect
caused by small sections of undrawn thermoplastic yarn that dye deeper that the drawn yarn.
DYEING: A process of coloring fibers, yarns, or fabrics with either natural or synthetic dyes.
DYEING AUXILLARIES: Various substances that can be added to the dyebath to aid dyeing.They may necessary to transfer the dye from the bath to the fiber or they may provide improvements in leveling, penetration, etc. Also call dyeing assistants.
DYE RANGE: A broad term referring to the collection of dye and chemical baths, drying
equipment, etc., in a continuous-dyeing line.
DYES: Substances that add color to textiles. They are incorporated into the fiber by chemical reaction, absorption, or dispersion. Dyes differ in their resistance to sunlight, perspiration,washing, gas, alkalies, and other agents; their affinity for different fibers; their reaction to cleaning agents and methods; and their solubility and method of application.
DYE SITES: Functional groups within a fiber that provide sites for chemical bonding with the dye molecule. Dye sites may be either in the polymer chain or in chemical additives included in the fiber.
DYNAMIC ADHESION: The ability of a cord-to-rubber bond to resist degradation resulting from flexure.
Textile Dictionary is start by Letter-D
DAMASK: A firm, glossy, Jacquard-patterned fabric that may be made from linen, cotton, rayon,silk, or a combination of these with various manufactured fibers. Similar to brocade, but flatter and reversible, damask is used for napkins, tablecloths, draperies, and upholstery.
DAMPENING (IN TIRE CORD): The relative ability to absorb energy and deaden oscillation after excitation.
DECATING MARK: A crease mark or impression extending fillingwise across the fabric near the beginning or end of the piece.
DECATIZING: A finishing process in which fabric, wound tightly on a perforated roller, either has hot water circulated through it (wet decatizing), or has steam blown through it (dry decatizing). The process is aimed chiefly at improving the hand and removing wrinkles.
DECITEX: One tenth of a tex.
DECORTICATING: A mechanical process for separating the woody matter from the bast fiber of such plants as ramie and hemp.
DEEP-DYEING VARIANTS: Polymers that have been chemically modified to increase their dyeability. Fibers and fabrics made therefrom can be dyed to very heavy depth.
DEFECTS: A general term that refers to some flaw in a textile product that detracts from either performance or appearance properties.
DEFORMATION: A change in the shape of a specimen, e.g., an increase in length produced as the result of the application of a tensile load or force. Deformation may be immediate or delayed,and the latter may be recoverable or nonrecoverable.
DEGRADATION: The loss of desirable physical properties by a textile material as a result of some process or physical/chemical phenomenon.
DEGREE OF ESTERIFICATION: The extent to which the acid groups of terephthalic and/or other acids have reacted with diols to form ester groups in polyester polymer production.
DEGREE OF POLYMERIZATION: Refers to the number of monomer units in an average
polymer. It can be controlled during processing and affects the properties of the end product.
DEGUMMING: The removal of gum from silk by boiling in a mildly alkaline solution. Usually accomplished on the knit or woven fabric.
DELAYED DEFORMATION: Deformation that is time-dependent and is exhibited by material subjected to a continuing load; creep. Delayed deformation may be recoverable following removal of the applied load.
DELUSTERING: Subduing or dulling the natural luster of a textile material by chemical or
physical means. The term often refers to the use of titanium dioxide or other white pigments as delustrants in textile materials.
DELUSTRANT: A substance that can be used to dull the luster of a manufactured fiber. Often a pigment such as titanium dioxide.
DENIER: A weight-per-unit-length measure of any linear material. Officially, it is the number of unit weights of 0.05 grams per 450-meter length. This is numerically equal to the weight in grams of 9,000 meters of the material. Denier is a direct numbering system in which the lower numbers represent the finer sizes and the higher numbers the coarser sizes. In the U.S., the denier system is used for numbering filament yarns (except glass), manufactured fiber staple (but not spun yarns), and tow. In most countries outside the U.S., the denier system has been replaced by the tex system. The following denier terms are in use:
Total Denier: The denier of a tow before it is crimped. It is the product of the denier per filament and the number of filaments in the tow. The total denier after crimping (called crimped total denier) is higher because of the resultant increase in weight per unit length.
DENIER VARIATION: Usually variation in diameter, or other cross-sectional dimension, along the length of a filament or bundle of filaments. It is caused by malfunction or lack of process control in fiber manufacturing and degrades resulting fabric appearance or performance.
DENIM: A firm 2 x 1 or 3 x 1 twill-weave fabric, often having a whitish tinge, obtained by using white filling yarns with colored warp yarns. Heavier weight denims, usually blue or brown, are used for dungarees, work clothes, and men’s and women’s sportswear. Lighter weight denims with softer finish are made in a variety of colors and patterns and are used for sportswear and draperies.
DENSITY: The mass per unit volume (usually expressed as grams per cubic centimeter).
DENT: On a loom, the space between the wires of a reed.
DEREGISTERING (CRIMP): Process of disordering or disaligning the crimp in a tow band to produce bulk.
DESULFURIZING: An aftertreatment to remove sulfur from newly spun viscose rayon by
passing the yarn through a sodium sulfide solution.
DETERGENT: A synthetic cleaning agent containing surfactants that do not precipitate in hard water and have the ability to emulsify oil and suspend dirt.
DEVELOPING: A stage in dyeing or printing in which leuco compounds, dyes, or dye
intermediates are converted to the final, stable state or shade.
DEWPOINT: The temperature at which a gas begins to condense as a liquid at a given pressure.Thus in air, it is the temperature at which the air becomes saturated when cooled with no further addition of moisture or change in pressure.
DIAL: In a circular-knitting machine, a circular steel plate with radially arranged slots for needles. A knitting machine equipped with both a dial and a cylinder (q.v.) can produce double-knit fabrics.
DIAMINE: A compound with two amino groups. Hexamethylenediamine, one of the intermediates in the manufacture of nylon 66 salt, is an example of this chemical type.
DIELECTRIC BREAKDOWN VOLTAGE: In an electrical insulating material, the voltage at
which electrical breakdown occurs, i.e., the voltage at which current will flow and/or the material melts.
DIELECTRIC CONSTANT: Measure of the ability of a dielectric material to store electrical potential energy under the influence of an electric field, measured by the ratio of the capacitance of a condenser with the material as the dielectric to its capacitance with a vacuum as the dielectric.
DIELECTRIC STRENGTH: The average voltage gradient at which electrical failure or
breakdown occurs. Expressed in volts per mil.
DIFFERENTIAL THERMAL ANALYSIS: A method of determining the temperature at which thermal events occur in a material undergoing continuous heating.
DIFFUSION: 1. A more or less gradual movement of molecules or ions through a solution or fiber as a result of the existence of a concentration gradient or repulsive or attractive forces. 2.The random movement of gas molecules.
DIMENSIONAL RESTORABILITY: The ability of a fabric to be returned to its original
dimensions after laundering or dry cleaning, expressed in percent. For example, 2% dimensional restorability means that although a fabric may shrink more than this in washing, it can be restored to within 2% of its original dimensions by ordinary home pressing methods.
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY: The ability of textile material to maintain or return to its
original geometric configuration.
DIMETHYL TEREPHTHALATE: [p-C6H4(COOCH3)2] An intermediate used in the
production of polyethylene terephthalate, the polymer from which polyester fibers and resins are made.
DIMITY: A sheer, thin, spun cloth that sometimes has cords or stripes woven in. It is used for aprons, pinafores, and many types of dress goods.
DIP: 1. Immersion of a textile material in some processing liquid. The term is usually used in connection with a padding or slashing process. 2. The rubber compound with which tire cords and other in-rubber textiles are treated to give improved adhesion to rubber.
DIP PENETRATION: The degree of saturation through a tire cord after impregnation with an adhesive.
DIP PICKUP: The amount of adhesive applied to a tire cord by dipping, expressed as a
percentage of the weight of the cord before dipping.
DIP TREATING: The process of passing fiber, cord, or fabric through an adhesive bath,
followed by drying and heat-treating of the adhesive-coated fiber to obtain better adhesion.
DIRECT ESTERIFICATION: In the production of polyethylene terephthalate, the process in which ethylene glycol is reacted with terephthalic acid to form bis-ß-hydroxyethyl terephthalate monomer with the generation of water as a by-product.
DIRECTIONALLY ORIENTED FABRICS: Rigid fabric constructions containing inlaid warp
or fill yarns held in place by a warp-knit structure. Used in geotextiles, coated fabrics,
composites, etc.
DISPERSION: 1. A system consisting of finely divided particles and the medium in which they are distributed. 2. Separation of light into colors by diffraction or refraction. 3. A qualitative estimation of the separation and uniform distribution of fibers in the liquid during the production of a wet-formed nonwoven fabric.
DISTRIBUTION LENGTH: In fibers, a graphic or tabular presentation of the proportion or percentage (by number or by weight) of fibers having different lengths.
DIVIDED THREADLINE EXTRUSION: Spinning of two separate threadlines from one
spinneret.
DOBBY: 1. A mechanical attachment on a loom. A dobby controls the harnesses to permit the weaving of geometric figures. 2. A loom equipped with a dobby. 3. A fabric woven on a dobby loom.
DOCTOR BLADE: A metal knife that cleans or scrapes the excess dye from engraved printing rollers, leaving dye paste only in the valleys of engraved areas. Also used to describe other blades that are used to apply materials evenly to rollers or fabrics.
DOCTOR STREAK: A defect in printed fabrics consisting of a wavy white or colored streak in the warp direction. It is caused by a damaged or improperly set doctor blade on the printing machine.
DOESKIN FINISH: A soft low nap that is brushed in one direction. Cloth with this type of finish is used on billiard tables and in men’s wear.
DOFF: A set of full bobbins produced by one machine (a roving frame, a spinning frame, or a manufactured filament-yarn extrusion machine).
DOFFER: 1. The last or delivery cylinder of the card from which the sheet of fibers is removed by the doffer comb. 2. An operator who removes full bobbins, spools, containers, or other packages from a machine and replaces them with empty ones.
DOFFER COMB: A reciprocating comb, the teeth of which oscillate close to the card clothing of the doffer to strip the web of fibers from the card.
DOFFER LOADING: Fibers imbedded so deeply into the doffer wire clothing that the doffer comb cannot dislodge them to form a traveling web.
DOFFING: The operation of removing full packages, bobbins, spools, roving cans, caps, etc.,from a machine and replacing them with empty ones.
DONEGAL: A tweed fabric with colorful slubs woven in, donegal is used for suits and coats.
DOTTED SWISS: A sheer cotton or cotton blend fabric with small dot motif, dotted swiss is used for dress goods, curtains, baby clothes, etc.
DOUBLE BACK: A secondary backing glued to the back of carpet, usually to increase
dimensional stability.
DOUBLE-CLOTH CONSTRUCTION: Two fabrics are woven in the loom at the same time,one fabric on top of the other, with binder threads holding the two fabrics together. The weave on the two fabrics can be different.
DOUBLE END: Two ends woven as one in a fabric. A double end may be intentional for fabric styling, or accidental, in which case a fabric defect results.
DOUBLE-KNIT FABRIC: A fabric produced on a circular-knitting machine equipped with two sets of latch needles situated at right angles to each other (dial and cylinder).
DOUBLE WEAVE: A fabric woven with two systems of warp or filling threads so combined that only one is visible on either side. Cutting the yarns that hold the two cloths together yields two separate cutpile fabrics.
DOUPPIONI: A rough or irregular yarn made of silk reeled from double or triple cocoons.Fabrics of douppioni have an irregular appearance with long, thin slubs. Douppioni-like yarns are now being spun from polyester and/or rayon staple.
DOWNDRAFT METIER: A dry-spinning machine in which the airflow within the drying
cabinet is in the same direction as the yarn path (downward).
DOWNGRADE: In quality control, the lowering of the grade and/or value of a product due to the presence of defects.
DOWNTWISTER: A cap, ring, or flyer twisting frame.
DRAFT: In weaving, a pattern or plan for drawing-in.
DRAFT RATIO: The ratio between the weight or length of fiber fed into various machines and that delivered from the machines in spun yarn manufacture. It represents the reduction in bulk and weight of stock, one of the most important principles in the production of yarn from staple fibers.
DRAPE: A term to describe the way a fabric falls while it hangs; the suppleness and ability of a fabric to form graceful configurations.
DRAW-BACK: A crossed end; an end broken during warping that when repaired was not free or was tied in with an adjacent end or ends overlapping the broken end. The end draws or pulls back when unwound on the slasher.
DRAW DOWN: The amount by which manufactured filaments are stretched following
extrusion.
DRAW-FRAME BLENDS: Blends of fibers made at the draw frame by feeding in ends of
appropriate card sliver. This method is used when blend uniformity is not a critical factor.
DRAWING: 1. The process of attenuating or increasing the length per unit weight of laps, slivers,slubbings, or rovings. 2. The hot or cold stretching of continuous filament yarn or tow to align and arrange the crystalline structure of the molecules to achieve
improved tensile properties.
DRAWING-IN: In weaving, the process of threading warp ends through the eyes of the heddles and the dents of the reed.
DRAWN TOW: A zero-twist bundle of continuous filaments that has been stretched to achieve molecular orientation. (Tows for staple and spun yarn application are usually crimped.)Drawing Sliver
DRAW RATIO: The ratio of final to original length per unit weight of yarn, laps, slivers,
slubbings, rovings, etc., resulting from drawing.
DRAW-SIZING: A system linking drawwarping and sizing in a continuous process.A typical system includes the following elements: (1) creel, (2) eyelet board, (3)warp-draw machine, (4) intermingler, (5)tension compensator and break monitor, (6)sizing bath, (7) dryers, (8) waxing and winding units.
DRAW-TEXTURING: In the manufacture of thermoplastic fibers, the simultaneous process of drawing to increase molecular orientation and imparting crimp to increase bulk.
DRAW-TWISTING: The operation of stretching continuous filament yarn to align and order the molecular and crystalline structure in which the yarn is taken up by means of a ring-and-traveler device that inserts a small amount of twist (usually ¼ to ½ turn per inch) into the drawn yarn.
DRAW-WARPING: A process in which a number of threadlines, usually 800 to 2000 ends of POY feedstock,are oriented under essentially equal mechanical and thermal conditions by a stretching stage using variable speed rolls, then directly wound onto the beam. This process gives uniform end-to-end properties.
DRAW-WINDING: The operation of stretching continuous filament yarn to align or order
molecular and crystalline structure. The drawn yarn is taken up on a parallel tub or cheese,resulting in a zero-twist yarn.
DRILL: A strong denim-like material with a diagonal 2 x 1 weave running toward the left
selvage. Drill is often called khaki when it is dyed that color.
DROPPED STITCHES: A defect in knit cloth characterized by recurrent cuts in one or more wales of a length of cloth.
DROP STITCH: 1. An open design made in knitting by removing some of the needles at set intervals. 2. A defect in knit fabric.
DROP WIRES: A stop-motion device utilizing metal wires suspended from warp or creeled yarns. When a yarn breaks, the wire drops, activation the switch that stops the machine.
DRY CLEANING: Removing dirt and stains from fabrics or garments by processing in organic solvents (chlorinated hydrocarbons or mineral spirits).
DRY FILLING: The application of finishing chemicals to dry fabric, usually by padding.
DRY FORMING: The production of fiber webs by methods that do not use water or other liquids, i.e., air-laying or carding.
DRYING CYLINDERS: Any of a number of heated revolving cylinders for drying fabric or
yarn. They are arranged either vertically or horizontally in sets, with the number varying
according to the material to be dried. They are often internally heated with steam and Tefloncoated to prevent sticking.
DRY-LAID NONWOVENS: Nonwoven web made from dry fiber. Usually refers to fabrics
from carded webs versus air-laid nonwovens which are formed from random webs.
DUCK: A compact, firm, heavy, plain weave fabric with a weigh of 6 to 50 ounces per square yard. Plied yarn duck has plied yarn in both warp and filling. Flat duck has a warp of two single yarns woven as one and a filling of either single or plied yarn.
DULL: A term applied to manufactured fibers that have been chemically or physically modified to reduce their normal luster. Matte; opposite of bright; low in luster.
DUMBELLS: A defect frequently seen in wet-formed nonwoven fabrics; an unusually long fiber will become entangled with groups of regular-length fibers at each end, thus producing a dumbbell-shaped clump.
DUNGAREE: A term describing a coarse denim-type fabric, usually dyed blue, that is used for work overalls.
DURABILITY: A relative term for the resistance of a material to loss of physical properties or appearance as a result of wear or dynamic operation.
DUST-RESISTANT: A term applied to a fabric that has been tightly woven so that it resists dust penetration.
DWELL TIME: The time during a process in which a particular substance remains in one
location (e.g., the time during which molten polymer remains in a spinning pack.)
DYE FLECK: 1. An imperfection in fabric caused by residual undissolved dye. 2. A defect
caused by small sections of undrawn thermoplastic yarn that dye deeper that the drawn yarn.
DYEING: A process of coloring fibers, yarns, or fabrics with either natural or synthetic dyes.
DYEING AUXILLARIES: Various substances that can be added to the dyebath to aid dyeing.They may necessary to transfer the dye from the bath to the fiber or they may provide improvements in leveling, penetration, etc. Also call dyeing assistants.
DYE RANGE: A broad term referring to the collection of dye and chemical baths, drying
equipment, etc., in a continuous-dyeing line.
DYES: Substances that add color to textiles. They are incorporated into the fiber by chemical reaction, absorption, or dispersion. Dyes differ in their resistance to sunlight, perspiration,washing, gas, alkalies, and other agents; their affinity for different fibers; their reaction to cleaning agents and methods; and their solubility and method of application.
DYE SITES: Functional groups within a fiber that provide sites for chemical bonding with the dye molecule. Dye sites may be either in the polymer chain or in chemical additives included in the fiber.
DYNAMIC ADHESION: The ability of a cord-to-rubber bond to resist degradation resulting from flexure.
Posted in: Dictionary,Textile Dictionary,Textile Dictionary-D Letter
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